Day 77. St. Pascal to Mont Citadelle. 49 miles. 4820 miles TTD. 2689 feet elevation. Weather hot.

The motel where I stayed in St. Pascal had a giant sign above the two-story building. It was quite worn and looked like it might fall off. However, the gentleman who checked me in did his very best to welcome me in English and even provided me with a great place to hike for a view and directions to get groceries and dinner. It was very much appreciated. I have to admit, being less able to connect and communicate with people has made me feel more alone.

Dinner was had in the restaurant sharing the motel’s parking lot. I “borrowed” a spoon to eat my cereal for breakfast. Sometimes, you just have to improvise. Before leaving this morning, I returned the spoon and then pedaled toward the hike.
When I arrived at the parking lot for the hike to the top of the local hill/mountain, a car was parked with a guy sitting in it. Leaving my bike and all my stuff at the bottom of the mountain didn’t seem like the best idea, so I canceled it.
Saint Pascal, Saint Lawrence, or my favorite, the town I’m going to tomorrow: Saint-Louis-du-Ha! Ha! Makes me wonder if everybody is a saint in Quebec and France? Was anybody just a normal person? I probably shouldn’t make that jab since I belong to a church where we call ourselves Latter-day Saints despite some of us being spoon thieves.


As you can see from the route profile above, there was a bit of an up, then a huge drop back down to the St. Lawrence. The Saint Lawrence delivered once more with about 15 miles of beautiful shore as I rode eastward. I had enjoyed the downhill, but I knew I would be paying it back later and then some. In fact, the first climb up out of the St. Lawrence River Valley, I probably should have been belayed; it was so steep. By the way, belay is a French word I know and use :-).

The picture doesn’t do it justice, but as I headed inland (south towards New Brunswick), there was a lot of empty-looking country. I had a little bit of foreboding, not that anything would go wrong, but just feeling a bit more alone knowing I would soon be on miles of empty road and trail. I’m not starving like the guys on the TV series Alone, but I’m also paying to be here. I would choose not to be alone if someone were crazy enough to ride with me, or at least have the chance at some prize money.

After another 15 or so miles of road riding, I ended up on a beautiful trail. Wilderness does soothe me, and this was a very nice Rail Trail designated for walking and bicycles only. They don’t even let horses on it. It’s 135 km long. I will get back on it tomorrow, and it will take me to my destination of Edmonston, New Brunswick.
First, the only things I saw were some moose tracks. Thankfully, I didn’t run into the owner. Later, this being Quebec, I passed several riders in the opposite direction. Unfortunately, our conversation consisted of bonjour.

The trail took me almost to my motel. It was a bit secluded, which didn’t help my mood. Later, at the motel restaurant, when I asked for two cups of milk for cereal since they don’t open until 11:00 tomorrow, I got two thimbles of coffee creamer. Despite everyone telling me that people in Quebec speak English, I have been able to find the seven people who perhaps hate English speakers, and that hasn’t helped me feel less alone.
I think the many empty miles in the earlier part of the trip didn’t bother me much because everything was still fresh and new. I also spent a lot of time pedaling each day. Now my routine is established, so things go quicker, and I’m hopefully in a little better shape, so the miles don’t take quite as long. Today was especially short, and that gives me too much time. I should start doing more 100-mile days again. 🙂
I like what my friend Tim labels my trip. The freedom trip. I really enjoy that part of the trip, going where and when I want. I am glad for the route I’ve chosen. I loved my time along the St. Lawrence. Even now, as I head into a more sparsely populated Northern New Brunswick, I’m glad to know that I will soon be back in towns and happily with people who speak English. Hopefully, that will help me get back on top of my three daily goals and feel more connected. And I’m sure that being on the road again in a new province tomorrow will lift my spirits.